Land and Sea Safaris
LAND AND SEA ADVENTURE
SAFARI, APRIL 2007
ExplorAider Team:
Raja Saade, Lebanese
ExplorAider Guide guide and host on board Panasha, Lebanese
Laurence and Natalie, French
Skipper and Cook aboard Panasha, ExplorAiders 47 ft catamaran
Korbinian Hort, German
Founder of EasyDay an outdoor education venture for students. Keen canyonner, snowboarder, skier, kayaker and climber
Anne-Marie, American
Musician and keen all round nature sports enthusiast
Paul, Dutch
Nature Sports enthusiast who is about to receive an introduction to rock climbing.
Daron and Corrie Sheehan, British
ExplorAider founding investors and keen nature sports enthusiasts.
Account written by Daron.
Activities: Sailing, Cycling, Running, Climbing, Snorkelling and Kayaking.
Day 0: Arrival
We all arrive and assemble at Hyeres, near Toulon in the South of France where Panasha is moored. I have thoroughly appreciated the restful day of traveling as I have just spent the weekend with David Fox Pitt of Events and Activities, a fellow Active Earth associate (see www.ActiveEarth.net), receiving the routes for two of his upcoming charity challenges, Maggie's Monster Bike and Hike and the Great Artemis 100. A back to back 30 mile cycle, 40 mile walk through the night and a 110 km cycle punctuated by a 19 hour monster sleep!
Day 1: Sailing and Biking around the Isle of Porquerolles
We sail across from Hyeres to the Isle of Porquerolles, a distance of about 9 nautical miles. The Island is a protected reserve and criss crossed by plantations and vineyards. As we approach, our first sight is the wild beach of Notre-Dame. The landscape creates a feeling of having traveled back in time and we almost expect a dinosaur to emerge between the tall crooked pine trees that adorn the coast.
The shallow turquoise seas are irresistible everyone is soon in their swimming costumes testing out the water. The water proves very refreshing as it is still morning and the sea temperature is only around 18C.
I decide to try out one of the Panahsa's new wetsuits and swim energetically for 40 minutes. There are a handful of other boats moored in the bay and I swim under them amongst the hundreds of fish that are sheltering under their hulls.
We swim back to the boat and dry off in the warm sun before Natalie our personal chef welcomes us with the happy news that lunch is ready. We enjoy a delicious lunch of risotto and salad around the table in the exterior cabin, taking in the panoramic views of the coastline of the Presque Ile de Giens and Porquerolles.
After a relaxing sun-bathe we do a tour of the coast of the island by boat. We see some superb cliffs to climb and make a mental note to find out if we are allowed to climb here. The skipper tells us that it is not unusual to see dolphins around the islands. We pass sea kayakers, scuba divers and snorkelers all enjoying what this island has to offer. Our appetite has been whetted to explore the interior of the island and we moor the boat at the port in the only village on the Island.
I decide to run and the others take the mountain bikes. With forest trails all across this beautiful island the bike is the best way to get around. I struggle to keep up but manage to catch up on the hills. The island is 7km wide and 3 km deep, is covered in trees and vineyards and has beautiful beaches and cliffs to discover. We eat in one of the charming restaurants and return to the boat for the night. We all sleep well.
Day 2: Sailing and Climbing in the Calanques
We set sail for the Calanques, the wind is blowing due East at 15 to 20 knots. We sail south-west and north-west tacking frequently to profit from the good wind. We arrive in the Calanques in the early afternoon. We sail leisurely towards our destination Port Miou, past impressive limestone cliffs with caves and crazy features that only nature's chaos could create. We eat as we sail, yet another enjoyable and wholesome lunch prepared by Natalie.
We arrive at Port Miou and moor the boat with the help of the port staff attaching a stern line to an anchor point on the cliff wall. We pack our climbing gear and plenty of water, for there is no fresh water in the Calanques, a feature that has preserved the area from development. Laurence the skipper prepares the dingy and we opt for the oars rather than the motor and row across to the other side of the calanque. We tie up the dingy and take the oars with us for security.
We hike for an hour to the Calanque d'En Vau, one of the most beautiful calanques. I run ahead as I have made a rendezvous with Loic, a French nature sports enthusiast who I met in a backpackers in South Africa. We chat enthusiastically about ski touring and snow-boarding whilst we await the others.
The others arrive and we decide to climb the Petite Aiguilette d'en Vau, a beautiful pinnacle overlooking the beach. There are 5 or 6 single pitch routes of approximately 30m in length on the pinnacle.
This is the perfect place for Paul's introduction to rock climbing. Korbi sets up two routes and Loic sets up a third one. After some instruction from Korbi, Paul is soon climbing and wondering why he hasn't tried this engaging sport before. Like 99% of people who try rock climbing with us, he is instantly hooked. This is a multi-dimensional sport that engages mind and body in a unique fashion.
Everyone does some climbing and as the sun starts to set we head back to the boat, rowing back the short distance in the dark under a nearly full moon. Aboard Panasha candles are flickering in the main cabin and Laurence and Natalie are waiting with a feast for us. We eat and the atmosphere is great, we listen to some songs written and composed by Jed a musical friend of ours who is talented enough for international stardom, but prefers to immerse himself in folk songs, rich in emotions and history.
After dinner Anne-Marie tunes her guitar and starts to play. This inspires Laurence, the skipper, who takes the guitar and treats us to the introduction of Bob Marley's Redemption Song. Happily Anne-Marie is able to complete the song and reminds us that "it is only us that can emancipate ourselves from mental slavery". The evening ends with a selection of Raja's famous Syrian jokes. Once our cheek muscles start to ache from laughter we ask Raja to stop and we head downstairs to sleep.
Day 3: Cave Exploration, Climbing and Abseiling into the Dingy
After a hearty breakfast, we set sail for Morgiou, another calanque where we intend to rediscover a cave that Korbi chanced upon 12 years ago during his last climbing trip to the area. We moor the boat and Laurence takes us in the dingy to a safe drop-off point.
We scramble across the rocks and Korbi soon finds the entrance to the cave. We make our way carefully across the smooth rock into the heart of the cave, I feel like a pirate looking for somewhere to stash my booty.
In the heart of the cave there is a rock pool and we are going to climb up the inside wall of the cave over the water and out an entrance at the top. We tie three ropes together so that we can climb as a chain, belaying from above. The belay assures that if someone slips they are safely attached to the rope and will not fall.
Everyone enjoys this unusual climb and makes it safely to the top of the cave. As we set up the abseil down the face of the sea cliffs we see Laurence arrive with the dingy, we decide to abseil directly into the dingy!
We head back to Hyeres, eating as we sail. Korbi and I launch into a deep conversation about all sorts of topics including Active Earth our new project, a club for nature sports enthusiasts and environmentalists. The others sunbathe and Corrie, lying on the trampoline deck, gets a massage from Anne-Marie a qualified masseuse.
Day 4: Snorkeling, Sea Kayaking and Au Revoir Corrie
We sail across to Porquerolles and get ourselves kitted up with Panasha's new snorkeling gear. There are some mythical snorkeling and scuba diving spots but we decide to stick close to the beaches. Afterwards we head out on the sea kayaks to explore the coast. On route we see a Moon fish, a crazy dinner plate shaped fish that swims on it side.
Corrie, sadly must leave us and return to civilisation, if that is the right word as life on board Panasha seems more civilised. Corrie is flying from Toulon-Hyeres airport. We moor the boat 300m from the beach in front of the airport. Korbi and I take the oars, Corrie says her goodbyes and wiping a tear from her eye, steps into the dingy. 5 minutes later Corrie is on the beach, another 5 minutes and after a short walk Corrie is receiving her boarding pass.
Korbi and I head back to Panasha, to more Syrian jokes from Raja before docking Panasha back in Hyeres. We help clean the boat and prepare our bags for tomorrow's adventure a trip to the Gorges du Verdon!
Day 5: Sight-seeing and Climbing in the Gorges du Verdon
We load up the ExplorAider van with climbing gear, a mountain bike for me, the rest of our food provisions and a guitar and we "make like a Kango", that is to say "hit the road".
We wind our way through the beautiful historic villages of Var en route to Aiguines, gateway to the left bank of the gorge. The scenery is incredible, the Lac du St Croix is beautiful, we wish we had brought along the windsurfs and kayaks. As we approach the gorges we are silenced by the immensity of this natural wonder, there is more rock available to climb in the gorge than in the whole of England. It is not long before we have parked up and are heading down a steep path with safety ropes to join one of the many climbing spots in this mythical area.
We have not picked an easy section, but the struggle to reach the top of these routes is rewarded by a mind-blowing bird's eye view of the gorges. Unfortunately there is no photographic proof as we were way too excited to climb to remember to take the camera up with us. Inspired by the beautiful rock, Korbi on sights and red-points a 7a+, that is to say that he lead climbs it cleanly without pre-studying the route. We climb until nightfall and then check in to a local hotel just as the clouds burst.
Day 6 and 7: Au Revoir and Cycle Tour
The others leave me and head for Spain to our favorite hidden valley, but that is another story. For me I have been given the job of finding a site for ExplorAider's next project a bio/organic farm / guesthouse between Hyeres and the Gorges du Verdon. I take my rucksack and my bike and head off for a tour of the historic villages of Var, stopping in at many of the agencies d'immobiliers (property agents) on route. It is quite refreshing to deal with well educated and informative agents, something that is sometimes lacking in the UK. The agents are surprised and amused when I head off 30km or so, on my bike to check out various abandoned farms and bastides. In between cycling on these scenic but undulating village roads I stop to eat and hydrate well. Two main courses for lunch or pasta with an extra helping of chips, plenty of carbs and fats as my sports masseuse maintains that carbs are the furnace in which fats are burnt. The following afternoon I cycle back the 100km to Hyeres from where I return home to my family.
ExplorAider clients can enjoy a sea adventure or a land and sea adventure aboard Panasha. With a selection of kayaks, windsurfs, snorkelling gear, bikes, climbing ropes, and qualified guides we can propose a multitude of activities for you to create your very own adventure. We would be delighted to receive an account of your adventure!
KOGUA RIVER KAYAK, NOVEMBER 2006
ExplorAider Team:
Harry Bateman
- ExplorAider Guide, South African
Daron Sheehan
- ExplorAider Investor / Product Tester, British
Account written by Harry.
The crisp, sharp bark of Chacma baboons breaks the morning stillness as our kayaks glide through the tranquil waters of the Kouga River. Their silhouetted figures dotted along the ridges that line the gorge entering the Baviaanskloof Mega Reserve. This world heritage site was aptly named after these mischievous inhabitants more than a century ago. Now they stand at the imaginary gates to the wilderness, announcing our arrival to all the creatures that share our exceptional wonderland.
It had been more than five years since I had paddled this wilderness river and the feelings of excitement flooded back into my memory from a time when the break of a new day signified exploration and wild isolated places of unequalled dimensions.
Our kayaks cut through the mirror images reflected off the red lichen covered rocks and the trickle of water over the gradually dropping rapids transporting us to a place and time, long ago.
We tested the maneuverability of our craft through the pebble surfaced rapids and we had a hard time wiping the silly grins off our faces after each obstacle. Our ability to read the rapids and find the most suitable course varied as we found ourselves leapfrogging each other for the lead, gesturing suitable lines to each other to avoid being dumped into the streams.
Our first tea stop beckoned us to slide the kayaks onto the virgin white sandy beach just five kilometers downstream from the put-in site at Riverside. In a flash I had the trusty "Trangia Stove" boiling up some locally harvested Honeybush tea. The water that flows through wilderness land for over a hundred kilometers is filtered through herbal vegetation called Fynbos and we scooped the clear sweet life-giving force straight from the river. On my last visit a "Cape Clawless Otter" swam right underneath my kayak as I dragged it through a tight bend in a rapid, smiling as he waved his clawless hands, the water so clear that I could see the bubbles clinging to his whiskers.
Feeling recharged and invigorated by the cleansing effect that leaving civilization behind has, we dropped back into our sturdy expedition kayaks and continued our exploration downstream. Every rock face filled with eye catching features, every tree glistening in the sunlight, radiating a presence worth noting. We had heard a "cheap-cheap" sound at our tea spot, but it was only after the Fish Eagles came souring overhead that we realised they were breeding along the rivers edge. It must have been a good season, for there must have been more than one chick in the nest, and to our amazement we saw the Fish Eagles target another raptor on the opposite edge of the gorge. It was a Black Eagle. Endangered and very rare, this gigantic bird of prey was skilfully escorted out of the Fish Eagle's territory with the baboons barking warnings to their young as the eagles skirmished overhead.
Lunch saw the opportunity to explore the rock faces we had been awestruck by all along the gorge, and we donned our harnesses and grabbed a rope in search of a good anchor to ensure a safe climb. Every face shouted "climb me" and it was hard to determine where to start. The words of my friend Cobus Theron, whom I've spent the last trip on this river with, echoed in the back of my head: "There is not enough time in this lifetime to explore it all, my friend." Indeed. My view was filled with 360 degrees of untouched rock, beckoning. The baboons made it seem so easy. Inspiring almost. Wouldn't it have been great to have so many hands. I looked at Daron enquiringly, trying to ascertain his mental state and saw by the look on his face that there was very little that would come between him and that rock. I couldn't help but smile inwardly as the mental image of two 'naked apes' ascending a rock face stirred a sense of ancestral connection of sort. It was going to be a great day.
We gobbled down our lunch and proceeded down the meandering river, its flow beckoning us onward. Every rocky rapid followed with calm clear pools, some stretching for hundreds of meters before winding through another maze of rocks and shoots, moving us forwards slowly.
By early afternoon our senses were attuned to the normality of wilderness being and our ears picked up every bird and our eyes saw every movement. An adult Kudu bull with impressive horns, startled by our silent approach, crashed through the thorny thicket that forms such a valuable habitat along the fringes of the riverine forest.
An Eland enjoyed the afternoon sun, basking on the sunny ridge, his narrow head supported by a neck unequalled in my sightings of decades in the African bush. "Sacred animals", I commented to Daron as we shot a photograph of this mystical native legend. "They capture the essence of all animals, like the sage captures the essence of all plants in native spiritual practice for the San people. You will see them often in their paintings as the 'Rain Animal', or the animal asked for permission before taking the life of another animal for food.". One could not but help float by these impressive beings and see why they held that status.
It was time to scout for a camp and even though we were not yet tired, our logic ruled that we would need some daylight to gather wood and brew up a feast before settling in under the Southern night skies. An ideal campsite comprised of good flat river sand, not too narrow, so that we might restrict the movements of animals along this navigational artery and one with enough driftwood to make a descent campfire. Our first option was invaded by the local troop of baboons and it almost sounded like they were commenting on our banana shaped boats as quite silly and the odd laugh could be heard over the warnings and comments within the highly structured social order. So we decided to press on just a little further avoiding an all night chatter that would inevitably keep us awake.
Our campsite for the evening beckoned us to pull up - a section of the river known as 'Vetmaak Vlakte' meaning to fatten up on the plain. Flat white sandy beach, impressive 'Cape Folded Mountain Belt' features and the sound of your heartbeat. We had managed to get ourselves properly wet on the last rapid due to an unforeseen tree blocking part of the fast flowing shoot and both Daron and I had a little unplanned swim and trailed our food bucket, a pair of sunglasses and a dry bag, while giggling at nothing in particular. Fortunately all was recovered and now we stood dripping on the beach, silly plastered grins still on our faces, contemplating where to pile the wood for the evening fire.
Not long after and we were pleasantly satisfied with our pasta, tuna and health bread dinner, our gear still dry after a short air, lying on our backs taking it all in. Great thing we had a camera for a sensory overload like that could easily be mistaken for a 'flow experience'. It is easy to drift off into the twilight, the warmth of the fire flickering off your face as the silence of isolation strokes your senses. The clouds moved over gently from the east and the heat of the day trapped under a blanket of moist prevented us from seeing the otherwise tangible stars, yet made it pleasant to lie out in the open under the African sky.
Morning broke with the familiar smell of campfire. A strong cup of coffee while wrapped up in your sleeping bag is the way to start a day. We had all morning to reach our pickup point and there was no hurry to break camp. We were in the middle of the wilderness area and there was no hurry to see civilisation again. Such a soft and inviting wilderness this is, unlike the harsh environmental elements that accompany other wilderness areas.
The second day of our paddle was immediately blessed with the presence of Eagles, Eland and off course the local residents, the Baboons. The river also took on another character as it joined the Baviaans River, an equal volume river that adds to the Kouga in an area known as 'Rooi Hoek' - red corner. Here the Ochre (Iron Oxide) bleeds from the rock in red deposits that the Bushman believed to be the blood of the earth. Sacred land. Most of their paintings were painted using this substance together with animal fats, toxic berry juice as preservative and blood.
We had covered nearly 40km into the centre of the wilderness along a geological phenomena, a North flowing river into the mountains, with only ourselves and the wilderness for company. Calm and tranquil, a feeling of oneness, peace - whatever one would like to call it. It was there. Imbedded in our being. Surfaced like a swimming turtle, blinking its eye at you, just so you know its there. A moment frozen in time.
We are not alone, we are not separate. We do not dominate but are dependent. Alone we are insignificant yet when we choose to become part of something so great and vast, our oneness with it amplifies our presence and sensitises us to the presence of others. It is only when we accept the privilege and allow its magic to sink through the layers of confusion settled like muck on the surface of a pond that we will see, hidden from our direct view - the intricacies of our natural world below.
I smile with a sense of satisfaction when thinking about our trip into the wilderness. Quality time is something that slips away from us if we let it. It makes me happy to know that we have grown some more. It grows my heart to have been able to share such a special place with such a special person.
I see you Daron,
A bushman friend once told me; "It will be hard for you to sneak up on a bushman", as he looked at me smilingly. I had spent many years refining the art of stalking, and I felt challenged by his remark.
"Your Spirit is so big, that I can see it from afar."
I understand better now what he meant that day. There are people that we are privileged to share space and time with, every now and then. These people you can see from afar.
I see you brother,
Much Love
Harry
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