Mountain, Snow and Rock
LA HAUTE ROUTE, 24TH - 29TH MARCH 2007
ExplorAider Team:
Yves Salino
- ExplorAider Guide, French
Maxime Chaya
- ExplorAider member, Lebanese
Daron Sheehan
- ExplorAider Investor / Product Tester, British
Account written by Maxime and Daron.
March 23rd
Here we are, Max, Yves and I at Chalet ExplorAider on the eve of our departure. Our mission is to brave the elements and take on the mythical high mountain ski-tour linking Chamonix and Zermatt, two might temples of alpinism. This voyage is an exploration of a high mountain wilderness and a self-exploration as we will discover or rediscover ourselves in this land of the gods where mortals tread respectfully in awe of the mighty glaciers and in fear of the capricious weather.
Yves our guide has undertaken this route more times than he can remember and is still at least as excited as Max and I for whom this is our first time. We have chosen a small and experienced team to be quick and nimble.
We have all struggled to make time for this trip. I have been busy helping out on the upcoming ExplorAider launch. Max one of ExplorAider's first members has just become the first Lebanese person to climb Everest, the crowning achievement of a program that included the 7 summits and the North and South Pole. There is intense media interest in Max's exploits and we had to pull him away from the clutches of Discovery Channel, who filmed his summit of Mount Everest. Yves has had a busy season and is heading off to Russia when we get back to take a team of Americans on skis to the summit of Mount Elbrus.
March 24th
We wake up early to fresh snow, but the mountains are hidden behind thick cloud and the forecast is for the cloud to stay. As we head up towards 3200m in the cable car from Chamonix we exchange optimistic smiles as we try to peer through the dense fog. Suddenly we burst through the cloud into beautiful sunshine, it is only the valley that is shrouded in cloud, so much for the forecast! As we commence our descent towards the Chardonnet Glacier carving tracks in the fresh powder, it is as if the cloud acts as a barrier separating this sublime high mountain world from civilisation below.
It is perhaps the easy and tranquil flow of ascending peacefully on skis that allows us to absorb the energy and wonder of this mountain kingdom. Much has been written that tries to capture the emotions of such an expedition. The reality is that everyone will experience it in their own way, each soul will be touched in a manner beyond words. I am reminded of Harry Bateman's (see ExplorAider Team) words:
"The fire speaks differently to each of us"
This account of our experience is focused on giving an idea to ExplorAider's members and potential clients of the magic of such an adventure, with unashamedly the express intention of whetting your appetite.
It is lunchtime when we reach the Col du Chardonnet, an ascent of around 500m. The descent is a baptism of fire, an 80m abseil on skis down a steep and narrow couloir (corridor). Max and I picnic in the sun at the bottom as Yves waits to help down others following in our traces who have neither ropes, nor crampons. When people come without guides and without the right equipment, then this is when accidents happen.
Max has taken on the role of official photographer, which is a bit sad as Max is more photogenic than Yves and I, but he has a top of the range digital camera and neither Yves nor I want the responsibility. Happily for Max technology has come a long way since Camille Ravanel photographed the first route on skis 1903 carrying 19kg of photographic equipment, Max's camera is closer to a 190 grams a 100 times lighter!
After lunch and when Yves is finally able to recover our ropes, we continue on. We had ambitiously set our sights on reaching Champex that night, but due to the delay descending the Col du Chardonnet and a broken ski binding we head for the Cabane du Triente in Switzerland. A short but tough ascent at an altitude of around 3400m and then a traverse of a beautiful plateau in the setting sun, followed by a short climb to reach the refuge.
We dry our clothes, eat well and chat excitedly with the other groups in the refuge, a Russian-Japanese party, some French heli-skiers and three other groups attempting the Haute Route. Yves is keen to celebrate the day with a bottle of red-wine, as disciplined athletes Max and I exchange a mock reprobatory glance, before eagerly agreeing. We toast a great day, unaware of the splendours that tomorrow has in store for us.
Official stats for the day:
Ascent 1105m (5m per minute)
Descent 900m (8m per minute)
Cols climbed: 2
Total time taken: 7 hours 59 minutes
March 25th
We awake to real commotion as everybody around us has realised that the clocks have gone forward, so what, why the panic we wonder and then we realise that the panic is over missing breakfast! We jump out of bed and join the stampede. I have a slight lingering headache from the altitude that quickly passes. The great thing about the Haute Route is that one has the chance to gradually acclimatise.
We head down to the little village of Champex, with one climb of 60m followed by an idyllic descent of 1500m through untouched powder under blue skies.
We ski through the forest and down to the village where civilisation and the St Bernard express bus awaits. Had we had more time we could have stayed high in the mountains and passed via the St Bernard monastery at 2473m. This detour would have required 2 further days.
ExplorAider held a staff-training event in this operating monastery in December and one of our staff swears he saw a ghost! This charming option is open to future ExplorAider clients.
A quick picture of Max enjoying the scenery on the approach to the village of Champex.
We transfer onto the train and reach La Chable where after fixing my broken ski binding we head up to the ski-resort of Verbier via the cable car.
We traverse the ski-resort pausing to watch the conclusion of an extreme ski-challenge being held that day. We decide to bypass the Mont Fort refuge and head straight to the delightful Cabane de Pra Fleuri (2662m). On route we take a detour to summit Rosa Blanche (3378m).
An idyllic powder-ski descent to the refuge. This is a comfortable refuge and we all manage to shower off one three-minute token, too bad for Yves that he got the towel last. A convivial evening and we meet two friendly Norwegians also doing the Haute Route.
Official stats for the day:
Ascent 60m (6m per minute)
Descent 1500m (15m per minute)
Ascent 780m (6m per minute)
Descent 915m (25m per minute)
Cols climbed: 3
Total time taken: 6 hours 4 minutes (on skis), plus bus, train and cable car transfer times.
March 26th
After a tasty breakfast (crêpes!) we join the hustle of the other teams and head outside to stick on our seal skins on the frozen skis left outside, or at least try to. It gets steep quite quickly and we enjoy kicking turns up the Col des Roux (2804m). From then on it's a long traverse / descent overlooking the Lac des Dix below to our left.
The snow is great and our two Norwegian young friends have made a good job of tracking the route. Instead of going around the lake we decide to ski all the way down to it and traverse the snow-covered ice. A large number of small but nevertheless potentially dangerous crevasses along the shore compel us to remain vigilant. Always keep your skis perpendicular to the crevasses! The sun is up and being at the bottom of the valley means that we are far from the howling wind waiting for us at the col.
After a short snack (Daron is already complaining that he hasn't got enough fluid in him), we put our skins back on and strip down to a bare t-shirt and a desert hat for Max. It can get awfully got skiing, and in this Alpine environment it is equally important to make sure that one doesn't overheat and sweat which would mean dehydration and vulnerability to the cold if and when the wind starts blowing.
The magic surroundings couple with beautiful weather sends Max into a photo shooting frenzy. His newly acquired 8 Mega Pixel little digital camera captures picture after picture, all destined to give the ExplorAider website browser a taste of how beautiful and magical the epic journey through the Alps can be.
We keep skinning up to the Cabane de Dix where Yves gulps down a beer within the first few minutes of our arrival there. A few more minutes and the three of us are devouring a huge Rosti - a delicious Swiss dish made up of potatoes, eggs and bacon.
Another few minutes and we order another one much to the surprise of the cute hut assistant. "We won't be having a 3rd one", says Max to her as he brings back the empty plates to the kitchen. "But what do you suggest for dessert?", "A good long nap", she replies with a smile, and that is exactly what Yves does, hoping that she might join him. He was still hoping come dinner time.
A convivial evening is spent with our Norwegian friends that due to an unfortunate mishap, is to be our last night with them.
Official stats for the day:
Ascent 870m (5m per minute)
Descent 620m (11m per minute)
Cols climbed: 1
Total time taken: 5 hours 14 minutes
March 27th
We woke to the light snow, but luckily no wind. Just yesterday several skiers had to turn back without being able to reach the top of Mount Arolla due to high winds. We ate breakfast with the two Norwegians. We were about the last to leave the hut due to another slight problem with Daron's rear binding. After fixing it with the Norwegian's multi-tool, we began skinning up the side of the seracs.
We were heading due East and the sun was still behind the tall mountains ahead of us so we remained comfortably cool. Paradoxically in cold weather one must be aware of overheating! Halfway through the 1000m climb we had to install our ski crampons given the increasing steepness and the presence of rocks and solid ice just beneath the fresh snow.
After all the food we ate yesterday at "Les Dix" we were all full of energy and Daron was literally on Yves' tail throughout the climb. There were about two dozen climbers on the mountain, and although we were the last to set off, we often overtook slower teams, as well as those who chose to rest or refuel. We skied past our two Norwegian friends who were sitting on their packs eating cheese and biscuits. While we stopped to drink and install our crampons they overtook us and headed up the steep slope. We followed and after a few kick turns we noticed a bit of a stir higher up. Then we heard someone calling a helicopter for rescue. We quickly realised that someone had fallen into a crevasse, and it was none other than the Norwegian!
Thankfully he was helped out of the crevasse by a rapid rescue rope and ice screw winch, put in place by the various guides who had gathered. He was shaken and a little bruised, he looked keen to continue but the air rescue team had arrived and they had other plans for him.
Within 30 minutes he was having a spectacular helicopter flight over the amazing sea of glaciers and high mountain peaks, unfortunately he could not see much other than the underside of the helicopter, as he was tightly strapped to the stretcher that was dangling in the void. We felt sad that the Norwegian's trip was cut short, but we were happy in the knowledge that he was in good hands.
We continued on, needless to say roped up until all the crevasses were behind us, to summit the Point d'Arolla. As the cloud cleared, we were rewarded with our first view of the Matterhorn, our distant destination as well as the Dent Blanche and a sea of other 4000m peaks. Photos at the top and we are once again carving our way through deep powder on the Mont Collon glacier to eventually reach the Vignettes refuge.
What a place for a refuge, perched at 3,157m high on a sheer rock face the refuge is a gravity-challenging feat of engineering. Before long Max and Yves are eating like food is going out of fashion! Yves slinks upstairs like a bloated Boa-constrictor to sleep off his feast. Max and I pay a visit to the maddest toilets that we have ever seen, steel huts perched on the extremity of a rock corridor with a sheer drop on one side.
New supper companions tonight, a Swiss group. We try hard not to jinx them.
Official stats for the day:
Ascent 1010m (6m per minute)
Descent 770m (17m per minute)
Cols climbed: 2
Total time taken: 5 hours 46 minutes
March 28th
We rise early for a big day that will take us all the way to Zermatt more than 35 km away. We head up the Col d'Eveques an ascent of around 400m. We are treated to a descent in untouched powder. Max is getting extremely excited, torn between photographing the mountain vistas all around and getting stuck into the heli-skiing quality descents. We traverse the glacier d'Arolla, a white wilderness, proceeding towards the Col du Mont Brulé that looks so steep as to be un-scaleable.
There is a group heading for an easier looking col and they are making good progress unfortunately the Col leads to a sheer drop on the other side and they do not appear to be base jumpers! The group soon realise the error of their ways and head back down to join us on the approach to Mont Brulé. The Col is easier than it looks, a few sharp kick turns and we reach the top.
On the other side there is another powder descent, sending Max into a fresh bout of excitement.
We are now in Italy and we cross the glacier Tsa de Tson.
The last climb of the day up the Col Val Pelen is a punishing one. The sun is beating down and the snow has transformed into Polyfilla consistency. The 600m climb is tough and we are breaking the trail, we take turns like pack cyclists to lead the assault. As we reach the top (3500m) we are rewarded with an incredible view of the Matterhorn and the Dent de Herens.
Our destination is now all down hill and what an amazing descent on the Stokji glacier. We carve our way through fresh powder in between the seracs. Max is now beset with excitement, his vocabulary has diminished proportionally and his usual eloquence has slipped into a mixture of stuttered vernacular and monosyllabic superlatives.
After descending 1300m on the glacier we reach the ski slopes of Zermatt via a cross-country ski piste. On the edge of the piste is a pretty bar / restaurant.
Hooray, Hooray, we have finally arrived, Chamonix to Zermatt in 5 days! 3 large beers please and whatever Max and Yves would like!
After the beer we head down the final 600m into Zermatt centre, happily there is enough snow for the home run. At 6.30 we are showering in the Bahnof hotel. The hotel loans us shoes and we head into town to eat. We end up at Nelly's attracted by the Belly Buster choices on offer. We celebrate with protein, carbohydrates, crème brulés and red wine.
Official stats for the day:
Ascent 1,290m (8m per minute)
Descent 2,850m
Cols climbed: 4
Total time taken: 10 hours 33 minutes
March 29th
Due to our arrival one day ahead of schedule we have an extra day in Zermatt. We get up early and take a lift to the top of the resort. We put on our skis and climb Breithorn a 4190m peak. We are well acclimatised and find the climb very comfortable. It is a windless and cloudless day and at the top, the view is amazing, we can see the Italian side of the Mont Blanc in the far distance, reminding us of Chamonix from where we set out.
Another powder descent and then we traverse / climb a little to join the Swartsor glacier. Our descent in total is an incredible 2800m most of which is in fresh snow. We descend this glacier that has amazingly beautiful serac formations. Max is getting very excited again, in fact we all are. We eventually join the Gorner glacier, which connects us back to the ski-resort of Zermatt. Yves and I are staggered by how much the tongue of the glacier has retreated since our last trip here together two years ago. We ski back into Zermatt and back to the Bahnof to collect our bags and take the train back towards Chamonix.
Official stats for the day:
Ascent 535m
Descent 2,835m
Cols climbed: 2
Total time taken: 5 hours 42 minutes
In conclusion, it has been an immense trip. We have been blessed with exceptional snow and weather conditions all the way. We feel truly privileged, like gods. We vow to do it again, or maybe even a Chamonix-Zermatt-Chamonix next year with an international group of ExplorAider clients and members. Yves is heading off to Russia to ski ascend Mont Elbrus, Max and I are planning a ski-ascent of Mont Blanc in mid-April.
For anyone interested in doing the Haute Route with us, we would suggest that you have some previous ski-touring experience. A logical progression is from piste skiing to off-piste skiing and then onto ski-touring. Please contact us for advice on a suitable program. Your ExplorAider guide will let you know when you are ready. Our standard Haute Route program is for 7 days, to give you the maximum chance to complete the route.
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